FAQ

The EGR valve is designed to cool exhaust gas by burning exhaust for a second time within the intake system. This results in the reduction of nitrogen oxide emissions. Recirculation of the exhaust leads to a gradual accumulation of carbon particles inside the inlet. These deposits eventually develop into a black layer of soot, which can lead to various engine problems and even engine failure. The short-term benefits of the EGR valve lead to a faster saturation rate inside the engine. Soot forms where the exhaust passes into the intake, and even within the valve itself, causing various problems. Fuel injectors, which are delicate and expensive components of the engine, may become partially clogged. As for the EGR valve, soot and grime may prevent it from properly opening and closing. If it becomes stuck in the closed position, it will lose all function. The vehicle will continue to run properly, however it will emit nitrogen oxides at levels beyond the threshold of what is legally tolerated according to area regulations. On the other hand, if the EGR valve becomes stuck in an open position, the engine will become saturated at an even faster rate. Over time, the vehicle will lose acceleration power and certain symptoms will manifest, such as persistent stalling.

There are several ways to clean or change your EGR valve, falling within a broad price range. The most expensive option is the outright replacement of the part. This is what most mechanics will propose. The price of the component varies according to the brand and engine type, but the average price is somewhere between $310 and $745. The moderately expensive option entails a little bit more time as well as some mechanical skills. It involves the complete removal of the valve in order to clean it with an appropriate solution. This can be difficult for novice mechanics as the EGR valve is not always easily accessible. Furthermore, the operation, if performed incorrectly, may cause an electronic malfunction of the valve. On average, a garage will charge between $120 and $310 for this service. The least expensive option, with no need for disassembly and entailing the shortest service time, and which is an alternative to part replacement, is hydrogen treatment via the Nano Bubble Carbon Cleaning station. This service works as a preventative treatment, recommended every 15,000 miles, but can also resolve existing problems in the engine. .

There has been many topics discussed around how long to let a turbocharged car idle before shutting off the engine. First we will tell you why your car needs to cool down before turning off the key and also why it is not good to allow a car to idle for a longer period than needed for proper turbocharger life. We know that a turbocharger operates at a very high rotational speed and it is fed lubricating oil from the engine, so it only makes sense you want to slow down the turbo's speed and also provide it with oil before shutting the car down. Once you turn off the engine in your car, the turbocharger will continue to spin for up to a minute or more and during this time oil is not being delivered to the turbochargers bearings, causing wear. To help prevent this from happening, we have been told in the past to let the engine idle for a few minutes prior to turning off the key. The good thing that happens during this time is in fact the turbo will slow down, but if allowed to idle for to long the temperature of the engine compartment, engine oil and the turbocharger will start to increase. The reason for this is today's car is designed to be moving while it is operated, allowing air to pass through the radiator and engine compartment, keeping it cool. The best thing is to drive your car as easy as possible when you are getting close to your destination. Once you are safely in your parking spot, allow the car to idle for no more than 2 minutes. This time will be adequate for both the turbochargers speed to slow, and for the temperature not to increase in the engine compartment. Since the engine's oil is also the lubricant for the turbocharger, keeping up with the oil change intervals and using the correct oil type is very important. Most consumers turn to the vehicle's service guide for this information but there are a few problems with this information. If not you will get extra carbon build up inaddion to damage.

All modern vehicles are equipped with an onboard computer diagnostic system (OBDII) that constantly monitors your vehicle's major operating systems and mos t importantly the power-train (engine and transmission). The main purpose of monitoring these systems is to insure that the vehicle is operating at top efficiency with the lowest possible emissions. As fuel economy and emission control has become increasingly important and complex, your vehicle's electronics systems need to constantly adjust and fine-tune various parameters according to driving conditions (such as vehicle load, temperature and air/fuel mix to name just a few). When the computer reads that any of these parameters do not fall within the acceptable range for operating the vehicle, your CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is lit to warn you that you may have a serious problem and to take your vehicle to a certified technician - such as your local AAMCO technician - to check the faults and restore it to manufacturer's specifications. What is the check? Reading the codes from your car's computer system is similar to a doctor measuring your blood pressure when you schedule a visit. High blood pressure doesn't tell the doctor what is wrong with you it simply lets the doctor know there is something wrong and points him or her in the right direction to find out what it is. Just like the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT codes tell your AAMCO technician there is something wrong and points him or her in the right direction, too. If the code indicates a problem with your O2 (oxygen) sensor system, it doesn't necessarily mean you need a new O2 sensor. Additional diagnostics pinpoints the exact cause of the "trouble" code so you don't pay for parts or services you don't need. Be wary of garages that read your code and tell you immediately that you need a major repair. What does the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT usually mean? There are hundreds of codes that could trigger your CHECK ENGINE LIGHT for dozens of reasons each. Even the most common reasons can have many possible causes. Some top CHECK ENGINE LIGHT codes are: Problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. You may not notice any serious drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a general decrease in power or sluggishness. This could be caused by a simple connection problem of the sensor, a wiring connection may be bad or dirty or the Mass Air Flow sensor may be faulty. System Running Too Lean. An oxygen sensor detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). You may notice a lack of power, detonation (spark knock) and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration which could be caused by a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor or air filter or a vacuum or exhaust leak in the system. System Running Too Rich: The oxygen sensor detected a rich condition (or a too-high fuel to oxygen ratio). You may experience misfires with this condition. This condition can be caused by a dirty or faulty Mass Air Flow sensor, air filter, a blockage or restriction in the airstream, a fuel pressure, fuel injector or fuel delivery problem. Cylinder Misfire: A P0300 series of codes indicates a random or multiple misfire in your engine. You may find your engine harder to start, the engine may stumble, idle rough and/or hesitate among other driveability symptoms. This could mean anything from faulty spark plugs or spark plug wires, a bad ignition coil, a vacuum or air leak, to a serious mechanic problem in your engine. This code is serious when flashing and can cause faulty catalytic converter(s). Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction: Your vehicle's computer constantly adjusts and retimes the engine so that it doesn't produce harmful pre-ignition detonation or knock. With this malfunction you may notice drivability problems including, not surprisingly, knocks and a lack of power and hesitation. It could mean the knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced, that there is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit or that you have other problems that the knock sensor cannot control. Insufficient EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Flow: Your vehicle recirculates exhaust back into the combustion chamber to better achieve optimal combustion chamber temperature and to reduce NOX (a harmful greenhouse gas). This light triggers when there is insufficient EGR flow in the combustion chamber and you may notice a pinging when the vehicle is at higher speeds. There may also be other symptoms. It could be a faulty sensor, valve or blockage in the EGR (tube) from a carbon buildup. Catalyst System Efficiency below Threshold : The oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). You will likely not even notice any drivability problems though your vehicle may have anything from an oxygen sensor not reading (functioning) properly to a damaged exhaust manifold or a bad catalytic converter.

An innovative solution to keep your engine clean. Using our unique hydrogen-powered decarbonizing machine, a technician at our Nano Bubble Carbon Cleaning center will remove nearly all carbon build-up. In just 30 minutes, your engine will run like new. The Nano Bubble Carbon Cleaning machine has a remarkable cleaning capacity. With this advanced technology, developed over several years, hydrogens is pulsed through the air intake pipes, can burn off up to 75% of the carbon deposits that prevent your engine from running smoothly. So before replacing your engine parts, try Nano Bubble Carbon Cleaning. A dirty engine as the result of carbon deposits is the new threat to vehicle performance.